So to make it an oil/varnish blend, I would just add a little oil to the mix and call it done. When applied to a raw surface, the oil hardens to protect and add luster to the wood. Polyurethane sits on top of the wood to form a protective barrier that is watertight in only two coats. It brings about the richness of wood but adds a slight yellowish tint. Tung oil can be applied on the wood surface using a normal piece of cloth whereas polyurethane has to be applied using a sponge or paint brush. Tung Oil vs. BLO – To compare the two finishes, Vaughn MacMillan applied boiled linseed oil to the left half and tung oil to the right half of this platter. Tung oil dries slowly and needs many coats. Penetrating tung oil finishes come in three varieties: pure tung oil, oil/varnish blends, and wiping varnish. Tung oil and polyurethane give a warm, natural finish. They all share the benefits that tung oil imparts to a finish—durability, water resistance, resilient hardness, and color stability—depending on how much of the oil … It penetrates into the wood, unlike a film finish, which sits on the surface. The main elements of Danish oil are usually boiled linseed oil and Tung oil. It offers great protection, has the look of a hand-rubbed oil finish, and is easy to apply. Reducing the ratio of oil to resin creates a hard finish for indoor use. So when you hear me say Tung Oil, I am always referring to 100% pure tung oil. Danish oil is used to finish and protect wood surfaces from moisture. These oils are drying oils, which darken and enrich the wood with a natural look as they dry. Let’s start with why you would use polyurethane in the first place vs. other types of wood finishes such as shellac, lacquer, varnish, etc. Perhaps the best part is that tung oil is non-toxic. Pure Tung oil is less likely to add an amberish tint to the mix. The dust and hassle of doing this, combined with dry time, in a store or restaurant means it doesn’t happen and you end up with a really poor looking surface after a number of years. The biggest disadvantage of Tung oil is that it requires touch ups yearly but is prettier looking than polyurethane’s plastic-y appearance. Oil finishes are super durable...in my opinion, just as durable as poly. Oil based polyurethane is comparatively more durable than water based especially when it comes to handling extreme heat. It also dries much faster than Tung oil. They're nice and smooth for playing. This is not something you can do with polyurethane! Now...just like "new.". Something like Formby’s is just thinned varnish. Tung oil makes the wood look granular and grainy by enhancing the natural grain of wood. The main elements of Danish oil are usually boiled linseed oil and Tung oil. Linseed and tung oil do not penetrate wood very well; these oil hybrid finishes use naptha and mineral spirits to both encourage quicker drying and to thin the oil to penetrate somewhat better. I use polymerized tung oil on quicky projects around the shop, gifts Ive made etc. It's beautiful as is and will still develop a nice patina over the years. Two of the most popular finishing varnishes in the market are Tung oil and polyurethane. 3) Touch up. Today, among the oiled finishes is the preferred choice by skilled craftsmen. Minwax Tung Oil Finish is a good example. I usually use a circular motion to apply...kind of like "waxing." I use polymerized tung oil on quicky projects around the shop, gifts Ive made etc. Oil is a "penetrating" finish so you really want the wood to soak up those first few coats. Dating back to the 14th century, tung oil was used to waterproof and protect wooden ships. It takes approximately 7 coats of Tung oil to make your surface truly waterproof. To me, poly finishes look "plastic" and tend to mask the texture and depth of a beautiful wood grain! It starts to form a film of deposits around the edges of container. I just refinished a round oak table and an old oak chest of drawers. Though the differences are small by comparison, tung oil is a little more protective than linseed oil, and polyurethane varnish is a little more protective and durable than varnish. For me, I prefer Formby's Tung Oil finish...but I have tried Watco danish oil, teak oil finish and several other oil finishes. Once you have stripped all the old finish off (doesn't matter if you are stripping a small cutting board or a large table...see a tutorial here!) Linseed oil and tung oil add more amber color to wood than varnish or polyurethane. Easy to maintain, it is the ideal protective finish for woods that have been refinished because it penetrates wood pores to restore vitality to dry, thirsty wood. Tung oil on the contrary is just rubbed on the surface. Make sure it’s “polymerized” tung oil. Wood finished with Minwax® Tung Oil can be periodically refreshed by simply applying another coat. It penetrates into the wood, unlike a film finish, which sits on the surface. and had deep figure appear where previously there appeared to be little or none at the final sanding/scrape. The most common and least expensive of the drying oils is boiled linseed oil. Also, poly finishes generally have to be removed entirely before any scratches or worn spots can be repaired. To apply an oil finish, flood it onto the wood, adding extra to keep the surface wet in areas where the oil is quickly absorbed. Rub the entire piece lightly with 0000 steel wool, TACK CLOTH THE ENTIRE PIECE (seriously, I can not stress how important it is to use tack cloth whether you are painting or oiling! As mentioned earlier, pure tung oil is non-toxic. Here I discuss the difference, or rather the lack of difference, between different oil finishes. Tung oil can be applied on the wood surface using a normal piece of cloth whereas polyurethane has to be applied using a sponge or paint brush. The tung oil is a bit lighter, and this difference will get more noticeable as time passes. It is honestly a "personal preference." Pro Custom Oil is mainly Tung oil, dearomatized aliphatic hydrocarbon, and naptha. Polyurethane on the contrary sits on the surface of the wood. If you are not concerned about yellowing of the surface, polyurethane is the best option. I never use poly on stained pieces. Seriously, this stuff is super easy to apply! This is great for sealing the countertop, but then there's a layer of plastic between you and your pretty new wood. Polyurethane is a liquid coating that dries into a plastic film. and had deep figure appear where previously there appeared to be little or none at the final sanding/scrape. Oil-based polyurethane consists of linseed oil, synthetic resins, and plasticizers. Tung oil dries a little bit faster than linseed oil, and sometimes it is modified to cure even more quickly. This is a hassle. Getting into the pros and cons in detail would be going on tangents. Then I just wipe "with the grain.". Oil, on the other hand, can be worked into a regular cleaning cycle by staff and touch-ups of scuffs are easy. As a suggestion, on a sample, start off with a 50% oil, 25% varnish/polyurethane, and 25% mineral spirits (or naptha if you want a faster dry). Here I discuss the importance of using a "food safe" oil on butcher block or wood cutting boards. For surfaces that are going to be used fairly roughly, a tougher top coat is highly recommended. The answer is they are not. Leaving the wood in its natural state, however, does not mean that you should leave it unprotected. For such intricate surfaces, Tung oil is considered ideal because of its characteristic of soaking in the wood. It is difficult to use by itself as a finish because you have to sand tung oil after every coat, not just after the initial coat. Yes I'd leave it. Crappy brushes may shed a bristle that ends up in your table’s finish. These oils are drying oils, which darken and enrich the wood with a natural look as they dry. What you will have is wood that is just soaked to the gills and won't take anymore oil. You could conceivably create a fairly non porous finish by umpteen applications of the oil after each application has dried. Although the other choices have their own advantages, Tung oil is the only natural finish that can give the best results among them. In Understanding Wood Finishing, Bob Flexner states that, “Tung oil can be made fairly water-resistant after five or six coats. Polyurethane varnish mixes alkyd and polyurethane resins with different types of drying oils. Sam Maloof's famous chair is finished with a mix of polyurethane varnish, tung oil and linseed oil. Danish oil: Smooth and easy. Copyright © 2019 by The Saw Guy – Saw Reviews and DIY Projects. And the tung oil shines. Since polyurethane is highly durable, you can even put a layer of it on top of dried tung oil for more durability. Based on my 30+ years using and formulating wood finishes, it is best to use a urethane when your primary objective is maximum chemical resistance and film hardness, i.e., durability. It is ideal for surfaces that will come into contact with food such as salad bowls, cutting boards and salt-pepper mills. That’s why, for the non-pro, I’d recommend an oil-based wipe-on polyurethane. I have been working on wood projects since I was a young boy. Increasing the amount of oil makes the finish flexible enough to withstand wood movement outdoors. A coat dries within 12 hours of application and only 2 coating of polyurethane are required to make wood water tight. To clean or dust, I just wipe down with a damp rag...then follow with a dry one. TheSawGuy.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. and applied a stain, the oil finish is super easy to apply! It does not coat the wood in a way that polyurethane does. Something like Formby’s is just thinned varnish. But I bought them used. It's no secret that I am not a big wax fan. It will leave you with a thin coat that will maintain your polished look for long. Wax. (Here I show you how to make super cheap applicators!). Poly has its place in your DIY arsenal...but for me, oil finishes are best on any natural or stained wood piece especially if they will need touch up from time to time! Welcome! Though the differences are small by comparison, tung oil is a little more protective than linseed oil, and polyurethane varnish is a little more protective and durable than varnish. Let’s talk about the real difference between the two. Some homeowners prefer painted or stained furniture and others enjoy letting the natural colors of the wood shine through. In fact you can apply it the same way as you applied tung oil, just put a layer on and then wipe it off. When considering tung oil versus polyurethane for wood floors, polyurethane wins the debate every time. Moreover surfaces on which Tung oil is applied require touch-ups yearly to maintain their sleek finish. » COMPARE: The Best Water Based Polyurethane. I've used a similar finish … But the tung oil has to be reapplied every so often. Polyurethane is considered the best option for high traffic surfaces like wooden flooring. Tung oil soaks into the surface of the wood and can take up to 48 hours to dry. Polyurethane Varnish. However, there is a variety of tung oil in the market available, which is made thinner by adding chemicals, so be careful and read the label. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO-lpMfPe1A&feature=emb_title, Dura Seal Water Based Polyurethane Floor Finish Application (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO-lpMfPe1A&feature=emb_title), Minwax 63010444 Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Finish, quart, Satin, Varathane 200041H Water-Based Ultimate Polyurethane, Quart, Gloss Finish, 32 Fl Oz, Minwax 33055000 Fast-Drying Polyurethane Aerosol, 11.5 ounce, Semi-Gloss. Disadvantages of the Tung Oil. Tung oil is one of the most water resistant of cuing oils and has a centuries-long history of use as a final finish. So I would have rather had bought them with a polyurethane finish on them. Here are a look at some of our favorite tung oils and polyurethanes available:​, http://www.woodworkdetails.com/knowledge/finishing/tung-oil, http://www.realmilkpaint.com/tips-techniques/how-to-finish-a-floor-pure-tung-oil/, http://www.silive.com/homegarden/homeimprovement/index.ssf/2009/07/the_pros_and_cons_of_lacquers.html, http://www.doityourself.com/stry/pros-and-cons-of-polyurethane-finish, http://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/water-based-vs-oil-based-polyurethane-floor-finish/view-all, http://itech.dickinson.edu/chemistry/?p=920​. There are important differences between these two oils. You can always start over if you mess up. It’s a great finish that offers the beauty of oil and the protection of varnish. A varnish basically protects the wood from destruction. If you notice a "drip" after a coat has dried, it is super easy to buff it out with steel wool...no biggy! It takes five to seven coats, with a two or three day drying time between each coat to achieve that attractive and smooth sheen. There are many clear wood finishes on today’s market. Today, among the oiled finishes is the preferred choice by skilled craftsmen. For me, I prefer Formby's Tung Oil finish...but I have tried Watco danish oil, teak oil finish and several other oil finishes. It is honestly a "personal preference.". (Photo by Vaughn MacMillan) Myth #4 The ONLY time I use poly is to seal paint finishes...usually Minwax Polyurethane or Valspar clear spray to seal "chalk paint" or spray paint finishes. You can do this with your kitchen table for example. So to make it an oil/varnish blend, I would just add a little oil to the mix and call it done. 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